Silicon Do-it-yourself Model For HHG

Dear all,

It is quite some time that I read this forum, that I made my CB, that I am gifting. I went through all stages of pouring TBs…at first in Teflon muffin models with all the theater for getting things out, pouring HHGs in glass models and again various techniques to get it out… Than I found info about silicon models… it was like heaven… only HHGs were still in glass models and in cone form (I wanted to make pyramid form). In this part of the world I couldn’t’ find bigger silicon pyramid model so I decided to make one of my own…and form I want to have… and I found even here in Slovenia supplier of silicon for this purpose. I’ve got one kilo and started with experiment…If you want to do it my way…you will need some patience as it has to be done in more stages:

  1. make model for pyramid of cardboard in desired measures. Inside surface of this model cover with wide adhesive tape of aluminum or whatever you want…it must be waterproof
  2. in this model you are going to pour »positive« of your pyramid of plaster. Ensure firm stand for this model when curing pyramid.
  3. get thing out and check it’s surface, than sand the edges and the tip of pyramid to desired round off (I don’t like sharp edges so I did it this way)…
  4. now you have pyramid as it will look in »polyester quality«… put this »positive« on plastic surface and prepare mixture of silicone, catalyst and hardener…mix this all together thoroughly (cca 2 minutes) and than carry this on your plaster model of pyramid (you don’t need to use any kind of lubricant). This silicon layer can be thick about ½ cm…than let it dry or harden few days.
  5. when it is has rubber look and touch, »undress« from »positive« part and put it again on it (for easier removal later)…now you need to prepare some kind of support for this silicon model as it is too soft to carry the weight of polyester resin and metal.
  6. this support is again made of plaster, carried on rubber layer which is still on plaster positive model…you will made over this rubber layer plaster pyramid form.
  7. when this support for silicon harden… remove 1. plaster pyramid and you can start with pouring polyester.

The rest is pure joy! This way you don’t need A LOT of material and you can have 1 kilo (2 pounds) of silicon for a lot of models of various shapes.

Next time I am going to enclose photos of all this procedure for easier understanding.

I hope it is understandable and useful…

Meta

The procedure is as follows:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051522.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/6qf-izdela.jpg
plaster pyramid

https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051523.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/voe-izdela.jpg silicon leyer on plaster pyramid

(https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051525.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/mxc-izdela.jpg plaster suport over silicon leyer

https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051526.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/mgr-izdela.jpg empty mould, without support

https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051527.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/92y-izdela.jpg mould in support of plaster prepared for pouring

(https://web.archive.org/web/20140114071100/http://www.slikomat.com/slika/2051529.htm:rnqc8hwl)http://www4.slikomat.com/07/1210/ei2-izdela.jpg final pyramid of polyester

But I forgot to take photo of the very first mould made of cardboard…sory

Meta

Kudos, Meta!!!

I was just wondering whether to post about silicon molds for orgonite–no kidding! Your way is more accessible, by the way.

Carol and I found it prudent to start making molds six years ago, but I started out using the rubber material, which is archaic and tends to get mis-shapened.

About four years ago I bought my first bucket of silicon mold material, which was around $500 but made an awful lot of molds.

Last year I made silicone pyramid molds for Carol which didn’t last very long because they were apparently too thick and so reacted with the curing resin somehow. She’s been using metal molds that only lasted for a few castings before the resin started to stick. Nothing she did prevented the sticking at that point. I spent a week or so, this fall, making newer silicone molds that are much thinner and these seem to be working out well. They’re about a quarter inch thick, this time, and held in specially made plywood cradles. Since it takes a lot less silicon more molds can be made this way.

I also made 8 earthpipe-plug molds that are 1/4" thick. I’m gearing up to drop finned earthpipes into lakes and rivers over underground bases from the airplane in the spring [Image Can Not Be Found];

If you (reader) are in the biz, as we are, silicon molds are going to save you a lot of time and a lot of money if you’re willing to bite the bullet and invest in the mold material. If I couldn’t afford it I’d eat beans and rice for a month to get it done (I used to do that all the time to afford what I required–I even lived in a camper for awhile [Image Can Not Be Found] )

In the summer of 2004 I started making an egg-shaped base mold for cloudbusters—four gallons, which is more than I’d planned but maybe I was guided to do it. The mold finally got done a few months ago (about $700 for the silicon mold material–sheesh) and if this version of cloudbuster pans out in the field I could make a lot more, grid willing.

Pilots traditionally consider themselves to be powerless to effect weather but most of us know that we’re not powerless that way [Image Can Not Be Found]; and when I start disabling mountaintop death ray arrays I intend to aim this souped up CB at the target area from where the plane takes off. I’ll also carry a very small, specialized CB in the wing struts, aimed at whatever the plane’s nose points at and to deflect whatever bad-weird weaponry the federal $#!tbirds might aim at me. Meanwhile, Carol and I have started studying weather dynamics as part of our own pilot training—pretty cool subject!

~Don

Thanks Don! I am glad that finally I contributed something useful to all this!

Meta

Uh! And don’t forget after plaster support of silicon mould hardens, remove silicon layer inside of this support and than put it back on exactly same position. If you don’t do this, support is stuck to silicon so tight that you need to break it to get the final pyramid out. Believe me…I tried…

Have fun!

Meta

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