Someone in Hawaii who can’t afford copper pipes wants to know if galvanized pipes will work, since Home Depot doesn’t have aluminum pipes.
As far as we know, all metals work about the same for this. Reich used steel pipes if I’m not mistaken.
~Don
I’ve used 3 inch galvanized fence pipe 10 feet in length and it worked. Never could move the heavy thing though lol
The big problem is if you but a CB base from someone. The diameter of steel pipe is not the same as that of copper pipe and unless you can make some kind of weird coupler, you’re not mating the two. Also, with the weight of the steel pipe, I’m not so sure a simply friction fit coupler would be sufficiently strong, if you could find one, to keep the thing together.
If you’re making your own its less of an issue but you’d still be faced with the issue of finding suitable couplers if you choose to make the base with short pipes that the longer pipes could be fitted to.
Not saying it can’t be done but you need to think about this a bit before marching forward.
Gene
I’ve made a few Cb’s with steel conduit and one with copper and found both metals worked well. Gene is right though, I never did find a coupler for steel conduit so you have to use 6 foot lenghts, or maybe weld sections together if you’ve got the equipment to do it. I think a grinder could also be used to remove enough metal from conduit for copper spacers to fit, but you’d have to do it twelve times so it would take a while (I used to work as a MIG welder).
I’ve used conduit for Earth Pipes too and found it works well and stands up to pounding in hard soil better than copper, but it is much heavier and harder to cut.
Mike
1" copper pipe has an outside dimension of 1-1/8" (1.125")
1" EMT (steel galvanized electrical conduit) has an outside dimension of 1.163"
The EMT is 0.038" (38mils) larger diameter than the copper water pipe. That may not seem like a lot but its enough that you’re not going to find a coupler to mate to the copper water pipe.
If you go completely steel, I did find a screw-type compression coupling to join two pieces of 1" conduit ($1 each which is pretty reasonable) but I don’t know if it would be strong enough to support the weight of a 6 foot length of conduit standing straight up.
I guess if you put 3 collars on the pipe (one nearer the top, one in the middle and one near the couplings, that would tend to stabilize things but not having tried it, I can’t say for certain if its going to be strong enough.
With the cost of copper water pipe these days, $32.69/10 footer at Home Depot, a set of 6 to make a CB would cost you $196.14 for the pipe by itself. The couplers would add ($2.42 * 6) $14.52 for a grand total of $210.66 for ONLY the copper to make a CB.
If you went with EMT, the pipe would cost you $7.42 * 6 ($44.52) plus the $6 for the couplings for a total of $50.52. Thats a savings of $160.14. WOW!
Of course this means you have to make the whole thing by yourself or get whoever you want to buy the base from to use 1" EMT so you can mate things properly. It would also mean the diameter of the holes in the spacer plates would have to be a bit larger and I wonder given the odd-ball OD of EMT if you could actually find a drill bit that would give you the right OD for a nice, tight fit.
Nothing is ever simple, is it?
Here’s the link I found for the couplings. Seems neither Lowes nor Home Depot carry them. http://www.garvinindustries.com/Electri … gs/CCP-100
And yes, I am now using 1.5" EMT for EP’s. When you consider that 10 foot length of 1.5" copper water pipe costs $77.15 where a 10 foot length of 1.5" EMT costs $13.35, its pretty much a no brainer. Expect to do a LOT of work sawing the pipe to size with a hacksaw. A sawzall could make fast work of it if you’re careful. It takes a while. The only other alternative is to see if you can find aluminum pipe to us. Not where to look and since I haven’t found any, no idea on the cost.
Chain link fencing poles have the coupler taper designed in… and that is a breeze to cut… and doesn’t weigh a lot.
They aren’t overly expensive either for an alternative to copper.
If I didn’t have copper pipe, I would explore that option. Drilling wooden spacers for the different size is a small detail which would be easy to overcome.
Drilling the spacers is only easy IF you can find the right drill size. That OD of the 1" EMT is a royally weird dimension – closest larger is 1-11/64. 1-3/8 might work but be a little looser.
Only problem I see with the chain link fence top rail stuff, aside from the fact its about 30% more expensive than the 1" EMT is that its larger diameter, around 1-3/8". Isn’t this too big a diameter for a CB? And wouldn’t the built in taper which looks to reduce the ID by a noticable amount cause issues with the orgone flow? In a copper CB, the pipe butt-ends so the inner wall is straight. Here there’d be a step to smaller and then a step to larger again. Is this OK?
The issue with the spacer is very easy to overcome when using a wooden spacer. I’ve used 3/4 inch holes for 1/2 inch pipes and it works as long as the inner part of the drilled circle fits snug against all the pipes, for that matter, a small ball could be fit between the pipes and will space the pipes well too.
The CB which I made with fence pipes needed no spacer at all.
The slight taper won’t affect the flow of orgone in any significant way either. It is the slightest bit of taper.
I recommend Copper pipe for any CB but I’ve used steel pipe and it works. Personally, I would not use aluminum pipes for a CB.
The slightly larger size of the pipe will not inhibit the CB from working, rather it seems to work just fine.
In the steel pipe CB which I made in 2006, it had 8 pipes (again, I recommend 6 pipes after my experiments)
each pipe was 3 inches in diameter and ten feet long. There was no spacer. I simply held the pipes in the correct configuration until the CB base hardened. lol
The CB base was poured in a 5 gallon bucket. The pipes were rather close together but the CB was an amazing powerhouse… when I moved, the CB had to stay there because it was too large and way too heavy to be moved. Rolling this CB to the side of the house and standing it back upright was a major chore.
If a person only has steel pipe as an option, I recommend using it in your CB because I’ve done it and it worked.
Copper is my favorite pipe material for a CB though
Just so readers won’t assume that making an orgonite cloudbusgter is a technical exercise I should probably remind that any pipes in any orgonite produces the desired effect. The parameters that Carol came up with from dowsing (and me writing it on a napkin at Dennys) in late 2000 have proven to be useful but this is more of a ‘pastoral’ pursuit than a ‘technical’ one, as George Carlin used to say, comparing baseball to football.
That was brought home to me when I visited Gert Botha in the Namib Desert in 2001/2 and saw his funky little cloudbuster, which he’d cobbled together from found materials and a gallon of resin. I think he had copper, aluminum and steel pipes in various lengths and diameters for that one but it produced miraculous effects, stopping sandstorms for a radius of several hundred meters. He said the sand was dropping in a way that looked like a wall and that the wind was calm around his house, inside of that radius. I spent enough time working with the fellow, after that, to confidently vouch for his truthfulness.
For some years after that, some legends in their own minds began insisting that new, proprietary contraptions and arrangements made our own design obsolete but when the psychics looked at these, usually in 3D (present) they generally found that teh doodads slightly hampered the effectiveness of this simple device.
Thank God the readership of this forum has generally gotten past the stage of awareness where every chest pounder completely distracts him/her from keeping his/her own counsel and using discernment, though of course the chest pounders have a hard time getting a foot in the door, here.
Just bear in mind that the diameter and lengths of the pipes, also the volume of orgonite at the bottom , are factors that determine range and ‘voltage,’ okay? It’s really that simple. The crystals make it more effective, just like with towerbusters, but doubling the size won’t double the effectiveness, sorry to say. Another trend that died a slow death was the habit of some to make massive scale pieces, assuming that it would take care of entire continents. Reich got grand results but they were temporary. We get grand results with numbers, rather, and those results are lasting.
ethericresearch.com is set up for this sort of discussion and I’m hoping that more people will start contributing, there. When these discussions happen on EW they tend to confuse and discourage newcomers, rather, and that’s nobody’s fault.
~Don
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That said, a cloudbuster as an interactive device has a lot of cool uses and every one we’ve made in the past seven years has been tweaked in one way or another: one for the boat, one for the airplane, one for charging water and a super one that Andy will be making and selling on ctbusters.com and that Carol conceived for us a year ago, during his visit. We’re going to take that one on the road in August through Tornado Alley, where there’s still plenty of fresh, poisonous DOR in the atmosphere to play around with, courtesy of the US Air Force’s failing War on The American Climate [Image Can Not Be Found] and Miguel has kindly helped me get set up to take timelapse films of those transformation events.
Ben’s making very good miniature CBs for interactive use–I’m hoping a lot of you guys will put them in your cars to confound the pavement artists when you’re out flipping their death towers but they have plenty of other uses. Carol bought one.
~Don
