PVC EPs Make Sense?

I have a question for if they work I could do a whole lot. Can the cavity effect achieved with PVC plastic tubes?
I already made some PVC plastic earth pipes, The diameter is about 1 1/3 or 33 milllimeter.
The PVC is enough heat resistent for curing the resing inside. The difficult part is planting in the ground, I have used a rubber hammer for the camping, first inseted the handle to pierce a hole in the ground and after removing a bit of the soil from the hole I then inserted the EP as far it would go and then hammered in. Since the soil was wet it was possibile to use this method.

Hi If you want to achieve the effect to canalize and suck the energy, PVC and any organic material is not suitable. Orgone energy has to meet metal to be canalized. PVC as organic material makes exact the opposite, it absorbs orgone. You should have the internal part of the pvc tube made metal. Think about a CB! The pipes are made of metal (inorganic) not of PVC -plastics (organic).
If you want to spend lesse money as you can take any metals pipe (iron, copper aluminium brass) cut to the right length and put the orgonite inside.

I thought I had a chance on the (maybe flimsy) postulate “the first come first served law of orgone” that in this case the plastic being harder than inside of the pipe, the difference will create some type of movement in the direction of the tube exit (as it was a fluid). After all there is fluid and minerals in the ground but not in the plastic, beside there is a flux of orgone pulsing all the time between the sky and the core of the earth.
At this point I am very shaky, I can add that there is a crystal inside that has a point, which was also sourrounded by a cilinder of papar where I coiled a copper wire attached to the point of the crystal, all merged in the orgonite.
Phew all those years spent studying sci-fi …
Never mind.

PVC is organic material like the polyester reicn you are using for Orgonite. The final thing you are obating is just a orgonite with another layer of organic material PVC that will attract orgon. At the end the all thing will be just another form of orgonte, but it won´t have tge properties of a EP.

Orgone energy will go through anything non-metallic like it wasn’t even there.

You need a metal pipe – ANY metal. For cheaper, look to 1.5" diameter electrical metallic tubing (EMT steel tubing). Its a bitch to cut but WAY cheaper than copper. Here in the US a 10 foot length costs less than $13 and that makes 9 EP tubes for a little over $1 each. The same in copper will cost you pushing $8-10 for EACH EP tube!

Reich used steel tubing for his orgone stuff. It works. Its galvanized so it won’t rust. Its designed to be buried underground.

Some have used aluminum thickwall tubing (lawn chair or lawn furniture grade) and that works also but don’t be expecting to pound these into the ground. You have to make the hole first and drop them in unless you live in the desert (wink).

And the effect, in engineering is more correctly stated as a tuned cavity effect though it acts a little differently with orgone its a similar principle.

Recently I had almost the same idea! I was thinking on a way to make a CB more cheaply and was thinking the following:

Can I use PVC pipes wraped in aluminium foil???

This would make EPs/CBs cheaper, lighter and also more easily available.

Do the PVC inside the foil have any major impact? Since the idea is to form a metal cavity I wonder if I can just wrap and glue or tape the metal around the PVC pipe, wich is much more easier than puting it inside the pipe.

Does it need to have a minimal thickness? Or a layer of metal of any thickness will form the ressonant cavity?

Anyone out there with a removable pipe Cloudbuster to test the PVC tube wraped in aluminium foil idea and compare it with the standard solid metal pipe ?

Not sure if it would work BUT no way you’re pounding EP’s made this way into the ground. They’d be quite weak mechanically and now having to make a hole to drop them in gets you standing in the same spot for way too long.

I think as Don pointed out – his idea last year to use a 24V (I think) 1/2" cordless drill with a bulb auger bit on it to quickly make holes to drop EP’s in – ROCKS really get in the way and the method doesn’t work well I guess unless you live in a desert where its all sand.

Whats wrong with thin, lawn furniture grade aluminum tubefor CB’s? I think this is what Gare from Canada, part year Thailand uses and he gifts these CB’s all over Thailand too. If you can find a source, I’m sure it’d be cheap and very light-weight.

Copper pipe is horrendously expensive and though its price is dropping a bit, I wouldn’t expect you’d see more than a 20-30% dip in price which still makes it horrendously expensive.

At Home Depot, for CB’s, steel EMT 1" costs $6.85/10 foot length as compared to $26.23 for a 10 foot length of 1" type M copper pipe (the thin stuff, type L which is thicker wall costs about $6 more). You need 6 10 footers because you need to make 6 footers and then you waste 4 feet of each pipe. A 1" 10 footer of white plumbing PVC is $1.90. Sure its over 3 times as cheap as the steel conduit BUT in a 6 foot length, that pipe suspended on one end only is going to sway and I guarantee being exposed to sun during the summer its going to get softer and arc or sway or go out of true where it might cool down and stay that way.

PVC is not designed for full sun application due to the softening. Its also not good in a high wind load. When over-stressed, PVC pipe breaks easily BUT it actually EXPLODES (I’ve seen it) sending razor sharp shards of plastic everywhere which if you’re too close will easily shred you.

The other thing you will have to deal with in using anything other than copper is that if you don’t make your own CB base where you could make the short pipes in the base of the same type of pipe you have, copper water pipe has a different OD than pretty much anything else you’d care to use including conduit (the standard is to add 1/8" to the stated copper pipe size – 1" would be 1-1/8" OD and so on) and now you’re going to be trying to figure out how to make an adapter (I’ve looked, you can’t buy them). 1" conduit actually has a larger OD than copper pipe which makes fitting it to an existing base with copper short pipes pretty difficult. Worse yet, the ID of conduit is still smaller than the OD of copper (if it wasn’t you could just slide it over and put a couple sheet metal screws through both to hold them togeter) so this is indeed a conundrum. Conduit is pretty cheap though, all things considered so if you can make it work you’re looking at (assuming no splices) about $42 for the pipe plus the cost of the base.

Conduit (1.5") makes nice EP’s. A bitch to cut and heavy so you can’t carry too many at a time but they come out nice and survive just as well when in the ground as copper ones do (maybe even better – the steel is galvanized).

I say again PVC is organic material and won´t substitute metals…because it is not metal! Anyway Edu your idea to make the inside of aluminium is right. But I do not know how you can get a good job and how long it will last…if the problem are money use iron pipes.

The PVC I had was sitting in the basement free, it was from my brother that used to be a plumber, i had to try it! The option of steel electric conduit pipe is affordable, I m gonna search for the prices around here.
I am tempted to make a couple more pvc and then maybe compare with the metal pipes, but how ?

Aluminum in contact with wet/damp soil rots pretty quickly to nothing.

It would need to be protected (on both sides) and you can’t do that if its wrapped around something.

PVC expands/contracts as it warms/cools. That will open gaps between the pipe and the foil letting moisture get in. Bye bye foil. This is why you need a thick film of resin on both sides of the foil completely encapsulating it (thick as in perhaps 2-3mm if not a bit more on both sides) which is sure sounding like a funky custom mold which is now getting too complex and perhaps cost/time prohibitive given you’ll only be able to make 1EP per mold every 2-3 hours (time it takes the resin to complete its initial cure).

If you could figure out some way to do the aluminum foil thing, I’m sure it’d work but unless I’m missing something, its seems rather problematic as compared to simply buying cheap steel pipe.

The big advantage to all of this orgonite stuff is ease and rapidity of manufacture. Custom molds and jumping through hoops to make something cheap work sure sounds like you’re heading the wrong direction but this is just my opinion so please don’t let it stop you from trying. You might find a way and that would give us all another option.


i found that PVC moulds are good to make some types of orgonite PLugs for special diameters , rather large i guess. There are many road posts and signs that are 12cm-14cm radius metal piepes and you can make a kick ass orgonite maybe comparable to an HHG but in tube form.
I am trying to get the quantity right ´do, not to waste unnecessary material but still get a good effect. Where i live there are so many of these post and i can choose to point the orgonite up or down where needed.



I can see the pipe working as a “mold” BUT, it starts to melt/soften at a rather low temperature so you do have to be careful about how much catalyst you add to the resin so it doesn’t heat up too hot and cause issues.

I’ve actually made plugs by wrapping about 3 turns of plain old (non-dry-waxed) waxed paper around a rod and gluing the end with a little white glue (contrary to popular belief, this actually works well). Think coin wrapper tube. I fold the end over and tape to seal, remove from my form and pour orgonite inside. For stuff like this I find that mixing the metal into your catalyzed resin and plopping this into the molds works best as there is no possibility of getting a trapped air bubble as you could if you were pouring resin over the metal if the metal you have is finely divide and packs well. This really works. They don’t come out perfectly round but close enough to call even and it sure is simple.

If you want them more round, wrap a couple turns of masking tape around the waxed paper tube while its still on the form. It stiffens the assembly considerably and at least here in the US, no-name (generic) masking tape is VERY inexpensive and a 60 yard roll will last a lifetime.

Going with the feeling, I imagine that if I want to work the unbalanced effect produced from an antenna array such as a cell phone network, or even a high tension electicity pilon that is passing near my house, and I have the choice between positioning the orgonite indoor or outdoor I would choose outdoor because they walls of the building feel like an obstacle. This could be wrong, but again is common to place the orgonite also on precise spots, like when is placed on a electriciy meter or the plumbing pipes of the radiators. Instead say of placing the orgonite in the middle of the room.

According to the type of substance or emanation, the effect of proximity can vary.

There is something else I want to mention here that I’m sure most of you aren’t aware of.


Yeah, there really is such a beast. Its used to thin resin so it can more easily be sprayed. There are industrial operations where in conjunction with a bale of glass roving and a chopper gun is used to build up layers of resin/fiberglass quickly for making panels and the like.

The stuff is called Styrene Monomer. Any good resin supplier should have it. I’ve seen it priced from about what resin costs per gallon (here in the US) to as cheap as half the cost of resin (Thailand from what Gare tells me).

The stuff is reactive. It cures just like the resin so it does not evaporate. 10-20% but no more is what you can use and it will significantly thin the resin and make resin that much easier to pour and the resin will flow around things much better. If you can get it for less than the cost of resin you’ve also just reduced the cost of making orgonite too.

One warning. It stinks worse than resin. Work with it in a well ventilated area but then, this is standard operating procedure for working with resin – also working upwind is also very wise. Wearing a good chemical vapor respirator might not be such a bad idea also. I sure do – they’re only $25-30 each and a set of cartridges will last years. Resin fumes are NOT good for humans. Words to the wise.


Where one would think wood from a home would not impair the orgone field from a device any, there are some things to think about. Plumbing pipe is copper – orgone loves this as a pathway. A lot of homes are insulated with foil (aluminum) faced insulation. There’s another pathway modification. The nails they used to put the home together are also metal and on and on. Where a home won’t stop orgone from leaving, I could see where the field would look different than if you just put the device outside and unobstructed.

Of and by themselves, TB’s have a range of efficacy of about 1/4 mile but depending on how nasty the death tech you’re gifting is, you could legitimately require 2 or even on rare occasion, 3 TB’s gifted around it to fully neutralize it and turn it into a powerful POR generator. One will still neutralize it but it might not push it very far over the wire onto the good side of things. This is just something you get a feel for after having gifted for a while and in some cases, yeah, I’ve gone back and tossed a second TB at tech that only got one initially. This is NOT a race nor does a piece of death tech have to be gifted fully the same day. For cost reasons, I usually hit each piece with 1 TB unless from experience I know its big enough and ugly enough to warrant 2 (or even 3). I cover as much area as I can quickly. I then watch the area for a week or two to see what happens. Sometimes its fine. Sometimes I see a small patch of YUCK that needs a little extra gifting. Sometimes the slyphs show me an area thats a little “thin” on gifting by parking over it and always being there when I look where the rest of the sky over the area is clear and clean. You just have to pay attention. You’ll know how effective your gifting has been and start to sense where a bit more would be beneficial.

From my perspective, the fastest improvement to an area will not come from gifting the biggest, nastiest piece of tech with a trunk-load of TB’s but instead, to gift every piece of tech with at least one, toss some in ponds and lakes (water seriously amplifies the effect) and at things that just plain bother you even if you can’t find any tech to explain it. Trust your “gut feelings”. Blanket coverage and then watch for effects that would lead you to believe a particular spot might need a bit more love and then go do it and you’ll see things clear up in that area quickly.

What I usually do is hit all the death tech in an area with what feels right to me and then back off and watch to see if there are any areas that might need a bit of grid gifting. Sometimes just taking out the tech is enough, sometimes not. In either case you’re saving a LOT of TB’s as compared to simply “carpet bombing” every single area you choose to gift where you’re not really learning anything as to how many are necessary for any particular circumstance due to the excessive number you’re tossing in any area. Don’t get me wrong. “Carpet bombing” an area with TB’s works well BUT if it doesn’t need it and you could save a bunch of TB’s for not having done it, that gets you coverage of a much larger area perhaps. Think about it.

Resin thinner is not really needed if you keep the ambient temperature as required, 20°C usually, at this temp the resin is very fluid
Or if done outside, keep the resin container next to a heater before using it so it’s still at an appropriate temperature

Thank you Gene,
I find it very useful, there is great deal of experience in the information from your post.
I didn’t know about the existence of thinner monomer, actually I have the impression that more liquid resin yelds even bigger amount of production of orgonite, it happend after we wasted some 15 liters of resin because it had become in contact with a little of catalyzer and it went in a gel state (at least this is what the seller said).
They advised we get the resin non pre-accelerated and then employ a few drops of accelerator (the blue cobalt thing) and do mix it only at the time when using the resin at the same time and together with the catalyzer.
For the EPs I understand that the effect I sensed was only localized at a short distance from the EP, what the metal EP does is like a jet compared to a normal exhaust.

The inexpensive (yeah, figure $30+/gallon retail) amber resin thats available in the US is quite viscous. No way it flows well at 20C. Even at 100F its still rather thick and working with resin this hot causes issues because it noticeably limits pot life (maybe 10 minutes working time).

The thinner is usually cheaper than the resin which makes it economical and now you don’t have to worry about heating anything. Just thin it in a separate can and use it out of that one any time you want and you’re good to go. A gallon of thinner will thin 5-7 gallons of resin to where they flow well at any reasonable temperature and being less expensive it extends the coverage as the thinner also cures hard like the resin and does not evaporate. Its reactive styrene plastic. There is already some of this stuff in resin as a viscosity modifier. You’re just adding a bit more to thin further.

The thinner will slightly compromise mechanical strength of the cured resin but we’re still talking in the many thousands of PSI range where maybe even 100PSI would be plenty for resin for making orgonite.

Sure, if you can buy resin thin enough to suit your needs, fine. Whats available at retail certainly in the US doesn’t meet this criterion. If buying by the drum perhaps you can strike a good deal but there aren’t many orgonite tossers who can either afford to do this or even have a place to store and work with a drum of resin if they could. I sure don’t. I wish I did though.

Like everything else, the thinner is a viable option and its use is based upon personal need.

Silvio, sure, you can get resin non-pre-catalyzed and add the cobalt (cobalt napthenate IIRC). Without the cobalt, it would take days to weeks to cure to the point it would be useless to anyone. Getting it this way you can tailor the resin to the speed of cure you want. This isn’t an option for most folks buying in gallons though. You’d have to buy a drum to get it the way you say and thats just plain not possible for a lot of gifters. It may or may not be a less expensive option depending on how your supplier prices things but if it is, go for it. It gives you more control over cure time/gel time.

The normal resins have the cobalt added and you get what you get. You can modify cure/gel time a bit by dropping the amount of hardener but NEVER go below 5 drops per gallon (5-15 drops is the recommended range with 10 being the norm). My resin supplier simply says to use 1% of the resin as hardener though I’ve yet to figure out if thats by weight or volume (I think weight as not stating either is usually understood to be by weight but we’re dealing with liquids here so I’m not sure – have to find out).

There is resin called “gelcoat”. Its thicker, almost gelatinous and usually colored though I recently found out you can buy clear too. Its used as a top coat on fiberglass for a nice finish. When you’re looking at a fiberglass boat, you’re looking at gelcoat. This stuff wouldn’t work well for orgonite unless you pre-mixed the metal into the resin and then plopped it into molds and even at that I wonder if it would settle properly. Its designed to act like a gel so you can get a thick coat even on a vertical surface without it running or sagging.

My limited experience with thinner resin is that it allows the metal to pack more tightly together, requiring less resin to create a solid mass so in a way, you trade metal for resin if your metal is divided finely enough to where it can pack rather tightly together (which makes a more powerful device BTW but maybe only by 10-20%) and you use less resin BUT, its not like you’re going to use half as much, maybe 10-20% less resin. Here in the US, buying aluminum scrap (only way I’ve found it so far -all the big scrap producers are now in other countries, sigh), at 75 cents per pound, using 20-30% more metal to save maybe 1/2oz resin per TB is VERY economical and it gets you a more powerful device as I’d already mentioned. This does mean you could actually make them a little smaller to save even more if you so choose. I don’t.

For my TB’s, I’m using a full pound of aluminum shavings per dozen TB’s. They’re VERY powerful for their size. I use less of the expensive resin which suits me just fine.

In orgonite, the resin is a matrix material though this matrix material does need to be organic so there is some effect it provides beyond just being “glue” where the real work is done by the metal with the crystal acting as an amplifier of sorts. The way I believe it works is that the crystal accelerates the speed of motion of the orgone energy which creates a stronger “etheric vacuum” around the device which sucks in much more DOR and POR making the device more powerful.

Yup, with EP’s the pipe acts to focus the orgone energy and seriously multiply the distance of travel (Don said many miles below the Earth).

PVC expands/contracts as it warms/cools. That will open gaps between the pipe and the foil letting moisture get in. Bye bye foil. This is why you need a thick film of resin on both sides of the foil completely encapsulating it (thick as in perhaps 2-3mm if not a bit more on both sides) which is sure sounding like a funky custom mold which is now getting too complex and perhaps cost/time prohibitive given you’ll only be able to make 1EP per mold every 2-3 hours (time it takes the resin to complete its initial cure).

Since I can’t make a CB right now, I’ll make a test. I’ll buy a 6 foot, 1 inch diameter, PVC pipe, wrap it in foil and let it standing exposed to weather in my yard to see what happens.

I’m planning to glue the foil with resin to the pipe and them coat it with a thin layer of resin. I won’t use a mould, i’ll just let it flow over the foiled pipe many times until I think it’s well coated.

By adjusting the amount of catalyst (Butanox for polyester resin) one can make it cure faster, realy fast if you wish, since its a thin layer off resin so time won’t be a major trouble. Warm weather also helps and I can harden it in less than 1 hour if I wish, even in the case of bigger pieces of orgonite. My resin suplier recomends 30 droplets of butanox catalyst for each 100ml of cheap ortophtalic brown polyester resin. The resin, in my case, has the density of 1,1 gram for each mL. But since I always have excess of catalyst, and counting drops is boring, I just give it a squirt [Image Can Not Be Found]; and it hardens easily 1 liter of resin.

I’ll make this trials with a Cloudbuster in mind, but perhaps I may try to adapt it to Earth Pipes with a small scale trial, and think off a good method to burying them without destroying them nor standing for too long in place. I think deploying the EPs after it rains is a good strategy here, as the rain softens the soil.

Since I’m small gifter, the quantity of EPs per run will never be more than I can put into my backpack so I’m not realy worried with mass production. And making the EPs lighter will help me carry more, since I do my work all by foot.

I also prefer the toilet paper tube orgonite in sign pipe method, since the pipe is already on gifting place and it also makes harder to recover the orgonite from the spot. For harder targets I conjoin 3 or more toilet paper tubes for a “pipe like HHG”.

I deploy it using an extended crude claw I made by making paralel cuts in the end of a piece of PVC pipe, so it will form a sort of flexible claw. The plug is held in the claw by friction, wich is helped by the cardboard mould around the plug. By placing the plug just a little inside over the tip of the sign post, and twisting and shaking the extended claw a little, the plug falls inside the pipe. For the heavier “HHG grade” plugs, I use a similar bigger claw, made off a bleach bottle cut by half. I use a piece of sponge for holding the big plug in place by friction, inside the upside down half bottle. The claws are suspended facing down on a “U turn” at the end of about 2 meters of PVC pipe. The shaft is screwable and dived in three sections, so it can be disassembled and put into my backpack. I usualy only assemble it after I spoted a suitable place to deploy the plug, them I disassemble it and move along taking usualy about 1 minute to do it. It’s a little embarasing on the begining but you start to notice that people don’t realy care about what you’re doing, unless they are a guard or it’s in front of their house or business . Sunday morning make things pretty much easier also.